Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Shell-roasted scallops

I vaguely recall Gordon Ramsay rebuking a hapless restaurant owner/chef for serving food in scallop shells; I can't remember the exact expletives but his scorn has stayed with me. Sorry Gordon, but I'm not a restaurant owner and I cooked scallops in their shells. Is that such a crime against food? Or public taste? I don't think so. I didn't set out to cook scallops yesterday. I went to court in the morning, accompanying a colleague who had got on the wrong side of the DVLA (note to anyone out there contemplating battle with the DVLA: don't) and, thanks to a series of errors, beginning with her garage failing to send the DVLA the appropriate documentation on time and complicated by the DVLA sending her mail to an old address, she was summoned to court by the Secretary of State for Transport. The whole thing felt Kafkaesque; the magistrate perched behind a high bar while we sat down below on those ubiquitous blue chairs that seem de rigeur in all functionary buildings now, including university buildings, if you are lucky enough to be in one that has been renovated (there are also ageing red ones with stuffing oozing out). Anyway the magistrate looked like a caricature of a television magistrate, straining in his old-fashioned suit and peering out of little round glasses. I kept wanting to laugh, except that it was serious. Luckily the magistrate had the sense to annul the judgement with reasonable speed. I came back into town on the metro; some students got on near town and began to debate the intensity of their hangovers. I got off the metro, wandered past the fishmonger and found scallops in their shells, so I bought them and decided to try out Jamie's recipes. I should say that they were pretty expensive; scallops aren't something you should buy on the spur of the moment as you pass the fishmonger, particularly large, juicy king scallops. Or maybe they are...

Jamie has three recipes for scallops in their shells and suggests making them as a starter - presumably choosing one of the three recipes. I decided to try all three; since I had six scallops, I made two of each so we both got to try each one.

Scallops the old-school French way:

Sit the scallops in their shells over chopped spinach and top with a mix of butter, lemon zest, parsley, garlic and nutmeg; drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Bake on top of a layer of rice or salt for 12 minutes.

Scallops with sweet tomato and basil

Blitz fresh tomatoes, garlic, basil, balsamic vinegar and seasoning with a knob of butter; spoon into the scallop shells and put the scallop on top, covering with a rasher of pancetta. Bake on top of a layer of rice or salt for 15 minutes.

Scallops with ginger, soy and coriander

Lay scallops in their shells and pour over a mix of soy, lime, ginger, sugar, sesame oil and coriander, drizzle with olive oil and bake on top of a layer of rice or salt for 12 minutes.


The French-style scallop was nice; the Asian-style scallop tastier still and the Italian-style scallop (with tomatoes and basil and pancetta) was absolutely delicious. The bacon had infused the scallop and worked really well with the tomato and basil sauce. It would be a fantastic starter, always presuming your guests are the sort of people you can feed scallops to, which isn't a given around here, because you can layer up the scallop in advance and refrigerate until you're ready to bake it. I suppose you might not want to serve scallops in their shells to Gordon Ramsay, but I thought they looked and tasted lovely; as Jamie says, they might look like '1980s retro campness on a plate', but who said there was anything wrong with 1980s retro campness? I defy anyone not to succumb to a scallop, baked in its shell.

127 comments:

Charlotte said...

Gordon Ramsey take a hike, they look beautiful in their shells! I've been a bit wary of scallops since I ate one in early pregnancy and became rather ill, but I think I could eat those - especially the bacon one! There is something about white fish plus bacon that really works for me.

Freya said...

Hi Kathryn! Rick Stein always recommends serving shellfish in the original shell where you can. I think it's much more organic anyway AND saves on washing up!
I've had mixed experiences with scallops but the Italian one looks delicious!

Anonymous said...

Let's here it for the common sense of Magistrates!

(A Magistrate) I am biased and my glasses are more chic.

Anonymous said...

A magistrate with common sense would not allow that sort of jobsworth-government-agency-bleeding-the-public-dry case to come anywhere near them!

Just my opinion though.

Simon ;-)

Jayne said...

Kathryn - the scallops look gorgeous, especially served in their shell. I can't wait for my daughter to take a peek and ask me to do them!! yummy
Jayne :-))

Kathryn said...

Ignoring the magistrate issues... Charlotte, the bacon one was really good. Freya - good, it means Gordon was just being a grumpy old man. Jayne - I confess I loved the shell part. I like things like that. Just don't tell Gordon Ramsay!

Paulie said...

You can't beat scallops - there's a mean recipe for scallops with black pudding floating around out there.

P :)

Gravy Queen said...

They look absolutely beautiful in the shells, quite retro I think but what do I know?

GQ xx

Kathryn said...

Scallops with black pudding!!! That sounds divine!

Oh, and retro is what I think too, but I like retro!

Kathryn

Anonymous said...

Just had a very strange internet moment. My name is Kathryn and I looked through my new Jamie Oliver cookbook for a way to cook the scallops in shells that I just bought... Thought I would look on the net just in case there was anything else I needed to know and came across this. Very odd.

-Kathryn about to cook scallops with Jamie-

Anonymous said...

Yeah, look, Gordon Ramsay's basically a bit of twat and he really only plays the arrogant arsehole card in lieu of genuine culinary talent. And obviously to enable his otherwise uninteresting and unhelpful shows to get berths in the reality TV slot. Serve the delicious little bastards (by which I mean scallops or green mussels or clams or pippis, not Gordo) in their shell if you like, not if you don't. I find bivalve mussels generally cook sweeter and moister in their shells, but then I generally don't do anything fancy - just steam them in white wine or really fresh and light chicken stock or lemon / lime juice with plenty of cracked pepper, parsley, chervil, tarragon, green coriander or a gentle sifting of (home-made) curry powder.

Farkov said...

Um, if any of you actually watched the episode in question you'd know that Gordon was telling them not to put non-scallops in the scallop shells(prawns or something from memory). He never said not to serve scallops in their original shells. Like most of the functionally retarded people he encounters on Kitchen Nightmares you need to listen to what he actually says, and not turn into a shaking pile of ineptitude because you don't like the tone in which he said it.

Martin said...

Hi Kathryn

Just found a recipe by Ramsey for scallops in their shells!!
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/recipes/article3304686.ece

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